"Was für ein riesen Dach!" dachte ich mir als ich das erste mal durch die "Schneidige Indianer" 8+/9- am Urlkopf kletterte. Da muss was gehen und wenn es geht wird es hammerhart, aber wenn es geht wird es megageil und wenn es nicht geht...??? Zuviele Fragezeichen. Wenige Zeit später machten sich Toni Moßhammer und ich auf den Weg auch dieses Geheimnis zu lüften. In der Mitte des Indianer Querganges machte ich Stand und cliffte mich ein paar Meter hinaus und setzte einen Bolt. Dann wurde alles arschglatt und wenn die Wand über deinem Kopf waagrecht Richtung Mitterhorn zieht ist das kein gutes Zeichen. Plan B. Man braucht immer Alternativen. Am schwächsten Punkt zwischen linker Dachbegrenzung und Kante haben wir schon bei der ersten begutäugelung eine logische Linie entdeckt. Eine schmale Fuge soll uns mittels eines sehr ausgesetzten Querganges zur Dachkante bringen. Mit der Bohrmaschine umgehängt kletterte ich los (schlimmer Anfängerfehler) und cliffte und murgste was ging. Es wurde ein wahrer Kampf und nach einem satten Sturz war meine Kraft schon fast am Ende. Einmal setzte ich noch an und erreichte mit Müh und Not die Dachkante, kämpfte mich drüber nur um festzustellen, dass ich nichts zum "cliffen" oder "keilen" finde. Also bohren aus der Kletterstellung. Krämpfe, Schreie, Tonis Anfeuerungsrufe und eine große Portion Glück gehörten dazu, dass ich den Haken noch reinhämmern konnte. Resultat- eine schöne, sportliche, athletische 9- Länge mit schöner Aussicht. Die letzte Länge war auch noch ein kleiner Kampf, den wir für uns entscheiden konnten.
"Zahniger Cowboy" 9- steigt gleich ein wie die "Schneidigen Indianer"(8+,7+,8-) und zweigt beim markanten Rechtsquergang ab. Die Hakenabstände sind etwas sportlicher als in der "Schneidigen" die sind "Zahnig". Die letzte Länge verlangt auch nochmal den achten Grad.
Allen Wiederholern wünschen wir einen tollen Klettertag in dieser wahnsinns Route.
Guido und Toni
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